With Michelin’s Green Star gone, Hong Kong seeks to redefine sustainable dining

David Toutain witnessed the birth of the Michelin Green Star in 2020. His eponymous restaurant in Paris was among the first to be awarded while Feuille, his Hong Kong outpost, secured one within a year of its 2023 opening. But even when Michelin quietly retired the award this year, he still never understood exactly how it was assessed. “I have no idea,” he says. “I don’t know the rules. I don’t know anything about it, to be very honest.” His confusion points to a larger problem. The Green Star...